by Kezang
>> View pictures from this amazing journey
At 7:00 am on 1st September 2009, eight volunteers from VAST headed to Kabisa in Punakha; thus, began the first trip of ‘Make a Wish’ Project. Twenty eight elders from Kabisa – the eldest aged eighty seven – were taken for a pilgrimage to Bumthang via Phobjikha and Trongsa. Despite their staunch faith and desire, many of them have never been beyond Wangduephodrang.
Our first stop was at Gangtey Goenpa in Phobjikha. While at Phobjikha, we were received by the Abbots of Gangtey Shadra, Khenpo Tandin Sithup, Tenzin Thinley, and 150 other young monks. We were given a grand welcome ceremony and which was followed by an informal discussion on Buddhist philosophy. The Khenpo distributed the red scarf to all before visiting the Sherda temples and attending their evening prayers. The Shadra sponsored the dinner/breakfast and provided a place to sleep with young monks sharing their blankets and mats.
On the second day, we visited Gangtey Goenpa, before heading to Trongsa. We stopped for lunch at Chendebji chorten. While the elders circumambulate the chorten, the young volunteers prepared lunch. That night we camped at the Trongsa View point.
Next morning we hiked along the ancient route to Trongsa Dzong, named the Magdue Trail. It took us about two hours at leisurely pace. Because the trail was narrow and damp the path was slippery and we were often attacked by leeches. A few of us were even stung by bees. However, we were relieved not to have encountered any bears during the hike, as was previously warned. The climb was exhausting. But as we drew nearer to the Dzong, every grunt seemed worth the while. The sky was clear and the Dzong towered high and majestic on top of the hill. The sight was breath taking. We visited every 23 lhakhangs inside the Dzong. Our next destination was the Trongsa Watch Tower museum, popularly known as the Ta- Dzong. The tour in and around Ta dzong was refreshing and enlightening. Ta Dzong was initially built to guard the Dzong from enemies.
By the time we drove to Bumthang, it was past 3:00 pm.
The two night camps, on the 4th and the 5th at Bumthang were pleasant. We pitched our tents at a ground few meters below Kurji lhakhang. There were settlements nearby, so fetching water wasn’t a problem. We visited ten main lhakhangs, most of which were located on mountain slopes.
Tamzhing Lhakhang was one of the ten we visited. Built in the 15th century by Pema Lingpa, a famous Buddhist saint, the lhakhang, it is believed, has never had to be restored since. Needless to say, there is an ancient feel to the temple. The paintings on the wall, originally done by the saint himself, is now faded, but remains priceless. Other lhakangs include the popular Kurjey Lhakhang, Jampa Lhakhang, Dorjibee, Pemsampa, Chakhar and Kenchosum.
The next day we headed for Mem-bar Tsho, the burning lake. In the early 14th century, Terton Pema Lingpa, a treasure discoverer, jumped into the lake and surfaced with a burning lamp with a statue of a Buddha, a skull and a religious script. This is how the lake got its name. The same day, we visited Karchu Dratshang and Jakar Dzong. Our lunch of “Jangbulee” (Bumtap’s special noodle) was sponsored by group of women at the dratsang. As we were heading for Chumey, we met the first rainfall of the trip. We visited the Nimalung Dratsang before the night halt. The rain was still pouring so, we couldn’t camp. The chumey gup came to our rescue by providing the village meeting hall for our night halt. While a few of us prepared dinner outside, the elders entertained themselves picking on each other with hilarious stories.
The 6th morning was cold and misty. As we started walking up the Tharpaling Dratshang, it began to drizzle which continued till we got back to our bus. The delicious lunch for group was sponsored by the Dratsang before we headed to Chendebji. This ride took more than 5 hours. By the time we reached Chendebji, it was past 7:00 pm. Many slept on the foot bridge that night.
Chendebji is located 41 kms from Trongsa. Legend has it that the Chendebji Chorten, built in the 19th century, sits over the remains of an evil spirit known to have harmed every souls passing the locality.
Our last camp was at Baylangdra, 21 kms from Chuzommsa in Wangdiphodrang. The ride was bumpy and cold. We visited more than 4 mini nyes before we headed for the main nye also known as Baylangdra, the next morning. The dinner and lunch next day were sponsored by asha lam and his uncle and aunts.
On 8th Sept. by 6:30 pm we dropped off all the elders at Kabjisa. Everyone headed home tired but happy. To celebrate the fulfillment to their wish, we volunteers hit a cozy restaurant in Messina, Punakha, had a hearty meal. By the time we reached Thimphu, it was 10:00 pm and drizzling. But the rain couldn’t dampen our spirits.
On behalf of all participants, I would like to thank all the sponsors and volunteers for making this pilot project a success:
- Khenpos and monks at Gangtey Sherda for treating us as special guests
- Mr. Yeshi Tshering of Bhutan Birding and Heritage Tour for providing a coaster bus for the entire trip
- Mr. Sonam Dorji the don of Nirvana Tours and Treks for providing the second coaster bus for the entire trip
- Tharpaling Dratsang for sponsoring lunch
- Mrs. Kila and her friends for special jangbuli lunch
- Chortenibu Lam and Aku for dinner and lunch
- Apa Dorji and Aum Namgay Bidha for the red rice to last for the entire trip
- Mrs. Karma Doma Tshering for red scarfs
- Mr. Tashi Tobgay of Bhutan Gateway Travel for tents
- Keys to Bhutan for mess tents
- Asha Kama for monetary donation
- Chumey Gup and Aum Sonam Om for the night halt
- Mr. Dechey Wangchuk for tea and snacks at Trongsa
- Asha Tandin, village volunteer
- Ap Tandi, Phakhakha, village volunteer
- Ap Tsi Dorji, Boeteykha, village volunteer
- Ms. Choney Pelzang, VAST volunteer
- Ms. Zuki Nima, VAST volunteer
- Ms. Kezang Choden, VAST volunteer
- Ms. Tsotso (Jigme Choden) VAST volunteer
- Mr. Dorji Wangchuk, VAST volunteer
- Mr. Tenzin Norbu, VAST volunteer
- Mr. Sangay Dorji, VAST volunteer
- Asha kama, VAST volunteer
- Mr. Pala of BHT
- Mr. Namgay of Nirvana
>> Watch the documentary of “A Wish Seen Through”
From Texas to Thimphu…
Written by VAST first international artist in residence, Xochi
A Greeting from Xochitl Rodriguez
My journey from the United States to Bhutan has been a long one. It didn’t just start in my hometown of El Paso Texas. The journey began at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival where I met Asha Kama Wangdi. After some conversation concerning art, Asha invited me to volunteer as VAST’s first artist in residence. The beauty of VAST is that it calls upon a person’s dedication in the most sincere of ways. You must volunteer in every capacity of the word in order to be a part of VAST. Recognizing the infinite value of such a journey, I began to seek outside funding for a one year visiting artist project. After receiving negative responses from 12 possible grant providers, I was fortunate enough to receive the majority of my requested amount from the Ella Lyman Cabot Trust Fund.
The process was grueling and at times very discouraging, but on account of the incredible gifts VAST has to share with the world, I went forth as fearlessly as I could, keeping my eyes on the awesome power of such an incredible opportunity. After receiving word, there were quite a few formalities to be had. You must be invited and granted permission to enter, especially for such a long period of time. So after receiving my incredible news, I left El Paso, Texas on September 17th and arrived in Bhutan on September 27th.
After visiting several places, some expected and some unexpected, I flew among the clouds through the beautiful Himalayas to arrive in Bhutan. My experience thus far has been full of surprises and beautiful adventures. I arrived just in time for Thimphu’s Tshechu where I was fortunate enough to witness some of Bhutan’s most incredible religious traditions first hand. I have visited a traditional Bhutanese home and was lucky to be present for a Puja ceremony. I have climbed up and down a mountain among the clouds during monsoon and I have been a guest at Bhutan’s first ever National Boxing Tournament. The most incredible of all my experiences, however, has been spending time at VAST.
I was invited to volunteer at VAST as a resident sculptress for the purposes of sharing the knowledge and experience I have with contemporary sculpture. I feel honored to have this opportunity to volunteer with VAST. I had my first meeting with the students on Saturday, October 3. It was my greatest pleasure to encounter a group of students who were not only eager to learn, but also enthusiastically engaged in planning the role sculpture might have in VAST’s next big project “YOUNG ZOOM”. It felt incredible to look out at their faces full of excitement for the “strange sculpture” we are planning to create together. It is my hope that I will be able to add to VAST’s incredible group of volunteers and help its student’s develop new tools to express themselves with. In these last couple of weeks I have observed a culture that is steeped in beauty, both external and internal. From my host family’s home in the mountains just outside of Thimphu, I wake up to the clouds and to two tiny children who greet me every morning with smiles and curiosity. As I walk through the town during the day, the children smile at me and the bold ones ask me where I’ve come from or sit beside me to hear the music I’m listening to or to see what I’ve taken a photograph of.
I have seen a world full of color and peaceful sounds. Every place I visit in Thimphu, I can hear children playing and people living. I’ve heard archers’ chants and calls in the distance as they carry out their tournaments. In all this beauty, I understand that I have come to Bhutan at a crucial time in the history of it’s Kingdom’s development. The capitol city is booming with the signs of Bhutan’s curious and unique case of modernization. As I hear children play and people live, as I see the unique and awesome power of Bhutan’s ever beautiful environment I am filled with hope that I may help provide these children with methods by which to express themselves and be heard as Bhutan’s future unfolds.
Children are the most valuable instruments humanity has toward progress and in Bhutan they are the most important promises for a beautiful future. It will be a great honor if I am able to contribute to the nourishment and development of their artistic talents and already incredible social consciences.
Likewise, it will be my greatest honor to learn from them.